The Case for the Fair Isle Sweater

The sweater that filled my school and my closet in the 80s, and why it still earns its place

At my all girls high school, freshmen and sophomores wore blue plaid and juniors and seniors wore burgundy. Either way it was plaid, and plaid does not leave much room for personal style. Winter was the exception. We were allowed to wear sweaters over the uniform, and in a building full of girls dressed exactly alike, the sweater was the whole fashion show. This was the 80s (I am dating myself, I know), and the sweater to have was a Fair Isle. Fair Isle sweaters were everywhere.

I could not tell you whether they came from Ralph Lauren or Lands’ End or somewhere else. I only know the school was full of them and so was my closet. They come back to the stores every fall and winter now, and I have been looking at them again. Do Fair Isle sweaters work after 50? I think they do.

This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Where Fair Isle Knitting Comes From

Fair Isle is a real place. I did not know that at fourteen, and I suspect most of my class did not either. It is a small island, about three square miles, in the Shetland Islands off the north of Scotland, and people have been knitting there for centuries. (Anything that starts on a Scottish island has my full attention.)

The way it is knit is what makes it special. Two colors go into each row, and whichever color is waiting its turn runs along the back as a long strand. That strand makes a second layer inside the sweater, which is why Fair Isle knits are so warm. Traditional Fair Isle designs use around five colors, many of them the natural shades of un-dyed wool from the island’s own sheep, and the geometric patterns come in narrow bands and little repeating shapes, busy up close and calm from across the room.

For a long time hardly anyone off the island had heard of them. Then in 1921 the Prince of Wales, later Edward VIII, was seen in public in Fair Isle knits and everyone wanted one. Ralph Lauren says it was among the first American designers to fall for the pattern, which might explain my school. Strictly speaking, most of what we buy now is Fair Isle style, since the real thing is hand knit on the island. I am fine with the style.

Why I Still Want One

Pattern over pattern should not work, and yet that was the uniform, a Fair Isle over a plaid skirt, all winter long.

Now I want one for other reasons. It is warm. The busy pattern forgives a dribble of soup or a dot of hot chocolate until it is washed. And it comes out every October like a seasonal staple, looks right, and goes back in the drawer in spring. A plain cashmere sweater is lovely (I wrote a whole post about mine), but a Fair Isle has more to say. It also fits the way I like to dress now, with fewer things chosen on purpose, which I wrote about in living with intention after 50.

How to Wear Fair Isle Sweaters After 50

I wear skirts, so mine goes with a dark wool skirt or corduroy, tights, and boots. I like at least one color in the sweater near my face to be a color I love, since that is what people notice first. It also goes over plaid, as I can tell you from experience.

If colorwork sweaters are new to you, start with a yoke style, where the pattern sits across the shoulders and chest and the rest is plain. Rollneck sweaters in a Fair Isle pattern are lovely under a blazer, and a collar peeking out at the neck makes anything look put together. I styled one with J.Crew pieces in a recent outfit post.

What to Look For in the Best Fair Isle Sweaters

Women’s Fair Isle sweaters fill the stores by October, and the new arrivals in the good colors go fast, so I shop early. Ralph Lauren has been doing Fair Isle forever. Lands’ End, J.Crew, Pendleton, Etsy, and Talbots bring out their own every fall, and all of them are worth a look.

Read the label. Wool, lambswool, and merino are all good, and a blend is fine as long as you know it is a blend, it seems like most everything is these days. Shetland wool can feel a little scratchy, so if your skin is sensitive, wear it over a long sleeved layer or look for merino.

And check the thrift stores, the consignment shops, eBay and Poshmark. An original from the 80s could be on a rack right now, and the old ones were often thicker than what is made today. Look at the elbows and underarms for thin spots and moth holes before you buy.

Taking Care of Your Fair Isle

Wash it by hand in cold water with a little wool wash, because warm water shrinks wool. Press the water out (no wringing), roll the sweater in a towel, and dry it flat on a rack away from heat. Fold it to store it, since a hanger stretches the shoulders.

Go Find One

I have no idea what happened to my school sweaters. Somewhere along the way they went to a cousin or a rummage sale, and I would love one or two back. It is half the reason I check the sweater rack at every thrift store.

If there is a Fair Isle at the back of your drawer, pull it out this week. If there is not, go find one.

Did your school let you wear sweaters over the uniform, and what did you wear? Did you have a Fair Isle of your own, and do you still have it?

If you like the post please share and don’t forget to follow along on Facebook, Instagram, X or Pinterest.

You might also enjoy:

The Case for the Cashmere Sweater

Anglophile Gifts for the Lover of All Things British

Shop the Post